Having grown up in an Italian family, wine was a fixture at the table; but it was the kind bought in half-gallons, which was pleasant only on the first day and then, as time passed, began to taste more and more of vinegar.
Born in Capo d’Istria, Castagna immediately moved to Trieste with his family, followed by Australia.
At the age of 19, he touched down at Heathrow Airport with the dream of making films and began working for an advertising agency.
“Those were the days when wine was still cheap in London and I started hanging out with some people who seemed to be wine experts, but were actually ‘poseurs’,” Castagna said in an interview with Rete Italia.
“I started studying and going to places that offered wine tastings.
“Since my employer, who was very wealthy, had asked me to buy some wine for him, I became very popular with distributors and I was able to taste wines of the highest calibre.”
Castagna’s growing passion for wine prompted him to travel to France and Spain to personally experience the process of harvesting and winemaking.
After a few years in London, however, he decided to return to Australia, settling in Sydney with his wife Carolann, and establishing one of the city’s most successful film production houses.
“Things had been going very well for over 15 years, but at a certain point I realised that I was working only for the money and no longer for satisfaction, so I thought it was time to do something else,” Castagna said.
“And since I only knew two things well – films and wine – I opted for wine.”
The couple set out in search of the ideal place for their new adventure and it ultimately came down to Margaret River, in Western Australia, and Beechworth, cradled in the foothills of the Australian Alps.
The latter location came out on top, and the Castagnas planted their first vines in 1997.
The vineyard is situated in an area reminiscent of Umbria, and Castagna soon became an early proponent of biodynamic viticulture.
The method is more of a life philosophy, which is similar to organic farming but also factors in the effect of cosmic forces such as planets and the moon and promotes holistic farming and enhancing the vineyard soil.
“In the beginning we planted five different clones of Syrah, all of which are progeny of the original 1850s stock imported into Australia from the Rhone,” Castagna explained.
“We also planted Viognier, a white that is used in small percentages to give Shiraz a silkier texture in France, and Sangiovese, which grows very well in this area.”
Castagna Vineyard is fully certified both organic and biodynamic and is one of only four Australian producers invited to be a member of La Renaissance des Appellations, an independent group of biodynamic wine-growers.
The wines produced by Castagna maintain an incredible vitality even when aged.
For example, the 2002 Castagna Allegro Syrah Rosé is still fresh and vibrant on the palate, while the 2010 Castagna Viognier Ingenue is floral with a honeyed aftertaste.
For those who enjoy a drop of red, you can’t go past the Castagna Un Segreto Sangiovese Shiraz, which is a perfect synthesis of the two grape varieties: 60 per cent Sangiovese and 40 per cent Shiraz.
Alternatively, Castagna La Chiave Sangiovese is an extremely convincing wine reminiscent of Brunello di Montalcino.
All of the wines are only available in Beechworth or in specialised restaurants, but Castagna recently signed a deal for the distribution of his products in selected Dan Murphy stores.
If you happen to be in Beechworth, make an appointment to visit Castagna Vineyard, and be immersed in a small corner of Victoria that will transport you to Umbria.
