On the one hand, they say, we complicate life and focus on the negative; on the other, the moment we sit down to eat, everything changes.
It’s around the table that problems seem to disappear and everything becomes simpler. The family comes together, “lays down their arms” and generations that, at times, feel worlds apart suddenly find common ground.
Following the recent proclamation of Italian cuisine as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, I spoke with some of Melbourne’s leading Italian restaurateurs to hear their immediate reactions and to understand how this prestigious recognition might influence the future of their businesses.
For Caterina Borsato, owner of the iconic Caterina’s Cucina E Bar, Italy’s gastronomic heritage goes far beyond regional traditions.
“This recognition belongs to all the grandmothers and mothers who got up early on Sunday mornings to make tortellini and broth, or to cook baccalà,” she said.
“My restaurant was born from exactly that idea. Growing up, the most important moment for my family was always Sunday lunch, when we spent hours around the table together, eating and talking.”
Borsato acknowledges that times have changed. While those rituals were once possible because mothers often stayed at home, she herself couldn’t offer the same to her daughter while running a successful restaurant.
“This place is built around the idea of that long Sunday lunch,” she revealed, “That’s how I carry forward that love and family tradition.
“When we were forced to close during Covid, I often thought of my grandmother out in the garden beating the baccalà. That memory inspired me to put this great Venetian dish on the menu, just as my grandmother made it.”
For our short conversation, Borsato opened both the door of her restaurant and her heart to me. Recently, Caterina’s Cucina E Bar seems to be receiving an uptick in praise.
“I don’t know if it’s because we received two hats from the restaurant guide, or because I won a Lifetime Achievement Award, or because of this UNESCO inclusion,” she admits.
“Maybe it’s a combination of all of it, but we’ve never been this full at both lunch and dinner.”
For Tony Nicolini, chef, restaurateur, founder of the DOC empire and owner of Italian Artisans in Albert Park, the UNESCO recognition represents a benchmark for the future of Italian cuisine.
“While it’s vital to follow tradition, it’s just as important to leave room for new generations and their contemporary interpretations—always respecting what the older generation has passed down to us,” he says.
According to Nicolini, this recognition reinforces the sacred act of passing on recipes and offers renewed inspiration, without forcing change, to young chefs who wish to continue those ancient flavours and rituals that are part of Italy’s cultural DNA.
“After all, we don’t cook just to make a living—this will help bring Australians even closer to a true way of life.”
He is echoed by Matteo Fulchiati, a young chef from Parma now heading the kitchen at Lagotto in Fitzroy North.
“Italian cuisine truly deserved this recognition from UNESCO because it’s incredibly diverse and rooted in history,” he says, “This gives it even greater importance and prestige, especially overseas.”
For Fulchiati, this is a historic moment for young chefs gaining experience in Italian kitchens around the world, often without having worked directly in Italy.
“Tradition absolutely must be preserved,” he claims, “I do that in my kitchen, but I adapt it to 2025.
“One thing that can be improved in traditional Italian cuisine is presentation. Originally, our food didn’t have to look beautiful—it had to feed the family.
“Even without aesthetics, the flavour and love were always there. What matters is bringing those values into a restaurant—with presentation and technique—while preserving the flavours and memories of Italy.”
Pia Gava, former MasterChef contestant, author and organiser of successful pasta and gnocchi masterclasses, sees the UNESCO listing as a way to safeguard Italian history and tradition.
“Of all the world’s cuisines, Italian is one that everyone tries to reinterpret,” she explains, “That’s fine, but unfortunately some people truly compromise the original dish—think of carbonara.
“There are chefs and influencers who spread incorrect information. Being recognised for what is authentic, traditional and culturally specific is an honour.”
For Gava, that honour extends to the Italian way of life, the emotions poured into every dish and the reasons those dishes were created—whether out of necessity or to celebrate special occasions.
“When I teach a specific dish in my classes, I always talk about where it comes from and how it can vary even within the same region,” she shares.
“And if I change something, there’s always a reason—seasonal ingredients or the way my family made it. I’m very careful to explain this to participants.”
Johnny Di Francesco, World Pizza Champion and founder of 400 Gradi, is no stranger to UNESCO recognition.
“I was very lucky to be part of the process that saw Neapolitan pizza recognised by UNESCO years ago. Seeing Italian cuisine now included is just another piece added to the mosaic,” he responds to the news.
For Di Francesco, Italian cuisine has an extraordinary heritage that must continue to grow outside Italy, especially in Australia, which is home to one of the largest Italian communities in the world.
However, he warns against imitations. “Everywhere you go, Italian food has been modified to suit local tastes,” he laments.
“I think this recognition will help protect it. It’s like Champagne in France—you can’t call something Champagne if it doesn’t come from Champagne.”
He views the honour as a starting point for the hospitality industry as a whole.
David Lakhi, owner of Little Black Pig & Sons in Heidelberg, has the final word. Having emigrated from India at 19, Lakhi spent 12 years working alongside the then Clara Capucci in her family-run Italian restaurant.
That time learning recipes from a culture not originally his own effectively made him an adopted son of Italian culture.
In his restaurant, which serves the cucina povera he learned from Clara, everything is handmade—from pasta and bread to gelato and even the savoiardi used for tiramisù.
Many customers, especially Italian tourists, are deeply moved by his food. “In Australia, pizza and pasta are now everyday staples. My children eat pasta with ragù bolognese three times a week,” he shares.
“When they grow up and cook ragù themselves, they’ll associate it with childhood memories.
“That’s why, in my opinion, Italian cuisine was added to the UNESCO list—because it connects people to their memories. Its simplicity is incredible. You don’t need much to create an amazing dish and make people happy.”
For Lakhi, the simple act of eating together has immeasurable value.
“In my house, no one starts eating until everyone is seated,” he says. “Feeding the stomach is important, but feeding the soul is even more so.
“That’s how peace is created, especially considering what’s happening in the world.
“The planet is very fragile right now, and what we need is food and music to bring people together, to break bread together and find some sense of peace.”
