Just like that, the leading lady of La Dolce Vita summed up Bulgari’s embedded connection to Rome and Hollywood film in nine simple words.
Over four months from September 30, the National Gallery of Victoria will explore Bulgari’s international influence, showcasing some of the brand’s finest gems worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida.
To celebrate the exhibition’s opening, Curator of Fashion and Textiles at the NGV Paola Di Trocchio will present a talk about the precious collection on the evening of September 28.
Paola puts the enduring success of Bulgari down to the brand’s signature style which was developed during the post-war period and has evolved over the decades, all the while maintaining the same iconic aesthetic.
“There’s a sense of familiarity and consistency around what Bulgari presents,” Paola says.
“It’s based around this idea of colour, design and boldness, using both precious and semi-precious gems as well as more traditional elements, like the use of the coin as a jewel itself.”
While Bulgari was established in 1884, it was the rising coverage of Rome on the Hollywood film scene which thrust the brand into the spotlight.
Bulgari’s flagship store sits right beneath the famous Spanish Steps on Via dei Condotti in the heart of Rome.
“There’s a very embedded aesthetic between the city of Rome itself and how Bulgari presents its jewels, all of which are quite robust, very bold and confident, and also very joyful,” Paola says.
Not only did the outlet’s location play a role in defining Bulgari’s designs, it would also come to dictate the destiny of the brand.
Just outside Rome’s centre lies Cinecittà, Europe’s largest film studio constructed during the fascist era, and later rebuilt during the post-war years.
Due to the abundant resources and sheer space of the studio, film producers and actors began to flock from all over the world in the 1950s to produce masterpieces for the screen.
“There was this real influx of Hollywood celebrities in Rome, including Elizabeth Taylor, Ingrid Bergman and Grace Kelly, and that’s where they all discovered Bulgari,” Paola says.
“The Bulgari family played great hosts to these celebrities, who had a great time not just looking at the jewels but socialising and enjoying each other’s company.”
It wasn’t long before these leading ladies fell in love with Bulgari jewellery, and the exotic Roman and Mediterranean worlds the brand reflected in its traditional pieces with a modern twist.
During those times, silver screen actresses still enjoyed the liberty of dressing themselves to a certain degree for filming, and they began wearing Bulgari not only in their downtime, but also behind the cameras.
In her 1964 film The Visit, Ingrid Bergman flaunts her own personal collection of jewels – Bulgari, of course – to represent her character the way she wished.
Likewise, Anita Ekberg showcased her Bulgari gems at the press preview of yet another famous Fellini film, Boccaccio ‘70 in 1962.
Once seen worn by these women, Bulgari jewellery instantly became an international object of desire.
The NGV has brought some of Bulgari’s most sought after jewels to Melbourne, many of which are classic signature pieces, such as the Serpenti.
Designed in the 1940s, this snake-shaped bracelet-watch wraps around the wrist and culminates in a jewelled head and an open mouth encompassing the watch face.
The Serpenti watch on display in the exhibition was owned by Elizabeth Taylor, who often wore the piece on the set of the 1963 film, Cleopatra.
“The watch exceeded into the characterisation of Cleopatra and the ancient epic story of a very powerful woman,” Paola says.
“But it had a strong connection to Elizabeth Taylor as well, because she was also a dominant, powerful and incredibly successful woman,” Paola says.
Many other key works in the exhibition tell of Bulgari’s strong presence in Elizabeth Taylor’s love life, including a diamond tremblant brooch gifted to the actress by Eddie Fisher, and a magnificent necklace featuring 16 emeralds which Richard Burton later bought for Elizabeth for their wedding.
With many more glamorous and glittering gems from the Bulgari Heritage Collection on display alongside film and photography, it seems that we too can have our own temporary taste of la dolce vita with a visit to the NGV.
