While Halloween is a more recent phenomenon in Italy and is still not widely celebrated, we have our own traditions which fall around this typically American day.
‘All Saints’ Day’, otherwise known as the ‘Festa di Tutti i Santi’ or more simply, ‘Ognissanti’, is an annual religious celebration and nationwide public holiday in Italy.
This tradition dates back to the 4th century and has its roots in the very dawn of Christianity.
It’s believed that Pope Gregory declared November 1 a Catholic holiday in AD 835, while in more recent times, on June 1, 1949, the Italian Constitution recognised it as an official public holiday.
All businesses and schools are emptied on November 1, as Italians pay tribute to all of the saints on the Catholic calendar and all Catholic martyrs.
After a special morning Mass, Italians often spend the day visiting family and loved ones to exchange gifts and enjoy a long feast.
‘Pan dei Santi’ or ‘Pan dei morti” - a sweet bread made from raisins, walnuts and figs - features at many ‘Ognissanti’ feasts across Italy.
As Italians let the day’s delicacies digest, they prepare for the following day of celebration, ‘Il Giorno dei Morti’, or ‘All Souls’ Day’.
While November 2 is not an official public holiday, many Italians still spend the day at Mass and in cemeteries rather than at work or school.
‘Il Giorno dei Morti’ is an ancient folklore tradition which spans beyond the birth of Christianity.
Legend has it that in AD 998, Abbot Odilone of Cluny declared ‘Il Giorno dei Morti’ on the day after ‘Ognissanti’, as it was believed that the dead were able to interact with the living around this period, and that the Saints could channel some sort of protective power against bad spirits.
Another theory behind the reason why this tradition is celebrated at the beginning of November is because this time represents Autumn, which is the counterpart to Spring.
Given that Spring generally symbolises new life, Autumn therefore has ties to death.
The day is dedicated to remembering those who have passed away, and many Italians visit the graves of loved ones, cleaning and adorning them with flowers and candles.
While chrysanthemums signify joy and prosperity in many societies, they’re symbolic of death in Italy, and are commonly used on ‘Il Giorno dei Morti’.
One theory behind the link between chrysanthemums and death in Italy is that these particular flowers blossom around the same time as this day devoted to the dead.
It’s not all doom and gloom on November 2, however, and treats and toys play a large part in the tradition as well.
For example, in some northern regions such as Lombardy and Piedmont, families prepare delicious dishes for the dead, save a seat for them at the table or leave water for them to drink, similar to how some Australians leave milk and carrots for Santa Clause.
In the south, the opposite occurs.
In fact, in Sicily, it’s the dead who leave toys and sweets for children on the eve of ‘Il Giorno dei Morti’, and when the morning rolls around a treasure hunt unfolds.
One particular sweet variety found across Sicily during this time is ‘Frutta di Martorana’, traditional marzipan specialties which are made from almond flour and sugar and are coloured and shaped to resemble fruit and vegetables.
Another typical treat of this festive period is ‘Ossa dei morti’, or ‘Bones of the Dead’.
Made from the season’s first almonds, and spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg, these biscuits reflect their name in both appearance and texture, as they’re dusted with icing sugar and are extremely firm and crunchy.
While you may see some Italian children wandering the streets shouting “dolcetto o scherzetto” around Halloween, you’re more likely to find Italians, young and old alike, spending this time of the year at home or at the cemetery engaging in two days of longstanding tradition.
