November 11 of every year marks the nationwide celebration of a particularly important saint in Italy: San Martino.
San Martino, or Saint Martin, was born in Pannonia (modern Hungary) around AD 316.
The son of a Roman official, San Martino followed in his father’s footsteps to become a soldier of the Roman Empire.
Legend has it, that one day San Martino was riding alongside his fellow soldiers to the gates of Amiens in France.
Outside the gates, the band of soldiers saw a poor beggar, shivering in the bitter cold.
Out of overwhelming compassion, San Martino drove his sword through his military cloak, donating half to the freezing beggar for warmth.
It’s believed that when San Martino handed over half of his cloak to the beggar, the sun came out and radiated heat over the region.
For this reason, the period around the beginning of November characterised by unseasonably warm weather is known in Italy as the “Estate di San Martino”, or the Summer of Saint Martin, otherwise known as the Indian Summer.
The other soldiers mocked San Martino for his kind gesture, but little did they know that it would make him a significant historical figure celebrated for centuries to come.
That night, San Martino dreamt of a man he believed to be Jesus, dressed in half of the soldier’s cloak and thanking him for his display of charity.
It was with this vivid dream that San Martino decided to dedicate the rest of his life to serving a Lord greater than the Roman Emperor: God.
San Martino passed the years living a humble, faithful life until his death in a monastery in Candes (France) on November 8, AD 397.
Recognised for his humility and generosity, San Martino has become the patron saint of soldiers, wine and winemaking, among many other things.
In fact, one of the most renowned Italian sayings circulated around the Festa di San Martino is : “A San Martino ogni mosto diventa un vino” (On Saint Martin’s Day, every must becomes wine).
During the festivities, Italians taste the vino novello, or the new wine of the year.
And – of course – the wine is accompanied by an abundance of food.
Each region boasts its own tasty specialties and its own celebrations.
In Sicily, ricotta-filled sammartinelli sweets are dipped in moscato and devoured by locals, while musicians roam the streets.
In Puglia, family and friends unite to eat chestnuts and pettole, which are delicious fried doughnuts with a sweet or savoury filling.
Venice is perhaps the city which celebrates San Martino the most, as children and adults alike don crowns and red capes to resemble the saint.
They parade through the city banging on pots and pans and chanting the famous San Martino nursery rhyme in Venetian dialect, while seeking money and treats from houses and stores.
One of the most sought after treats is the torta di San Martino, a cake in the shape of the saint riding on horseback.
Whether you are sweet-toothed, a wine connoisseur, or perhaps even both, this annual tradition has something for everybody.
Cheers to San Martino!