The chestnut plays an important role in Italian culture, and was once the primary source of sustenance for ancient populations along the peninsula, especially in Tuscany.
The humble chestnut was a vital dietary component of poorer families since Roman times and was often referred to as the “bread of the poor” in certain areas gaining popularity due to its versatility and nutritional value.
During the changing of seasons when the sun is still shining, glossy balls of auburn peep out of opening burrs which are decorated with prickly golden thorns.
While chestnuts can be found across Italy, they grow in higher altitudes, and therefore are usually hiding away from typical tourist locations.
Chestnuts are particularly important in Tuscany, and during autumn you will find them scattered across the ground in the mountainous areas of the region such as Monte Amiata, Garfagnana, Mugello and Casentino.
Once the sweet and simple chestnuts have been gathered, they can be turned into a flour which is then used to make bread, biscuits and polenta.
Myriad traditional specialties and ancient recipes are based on this age-old product, such as boiled chestnuts and “castagnaccio”, which is an uncomplicated, dense cake made out of chestnut flour and pine nuts.
One of the most popular ways to enjoy the warm, sweet flavour of this popular delicacy is by treating yourself to some “caldarroste”, or roasted chestnuts, and a glass of wine.
During the autumn months, the main streets of most towns and cities are often lined with large pans, and chestnuts are roasted, wrapped in paper and served hot to people passing by in need of some warming up.
A harvest wouldn’t be complete in Italy without a celebration.
On almost every weekend of October you will find a festival dedicated to the chestnut harvest in some part of the peninsula, featuring food, wine and music.
It would be impossible to list all of the festivals that take place during the harvest, but if you’re visiting Siena during this time the Crastatone Festival in Piancastagnaio is a highlight.
Running from October 30 to November 1, this festival is one of the oldest in honour of traditional dishes.
The celebrations take place within the ancient walls of the medieval town centre, and live music and dancing revives the atmosphere of an authentic pastoral village.
Vendors dot the antique streets and alleyways, selling all sorts of local delicacies and chestnut-based cuisines.
The Chestnut Festival in Marradi (Florence) is another great way to immerse yourself in the rustic tradition of the chestnut harvest.
This festival runs on every Sunday throughout the month of October, offering many opportunities for you to try local specialties and traditional regional products grown in the surrounding forests, including “caldarroste”.
Meander around the town to the sound of traditional music and take in the aroma of a mosaic of foods, while local dancers float down the streets taking you on a journey into the past.
