When the headquarters of Il Globo and Rete Italia were located on Kerr Street, a side street off Smith Street, Fitzroy, we were spoiled for choice in terms of bars and restaurants to go to for lunch.
Since we moved to Brunswick West, our choices have decreased somewhat. Especially considering that the few places accessible within walking distance often don’t open for lunch, in part due to Melbourne’s hospitality staff shortage.
Last week, however, we made a discovery: we found Cirelli & Co on Albion Street- restaurant, pizzeria and bakery. A few of us colleagues have already been twice. Safe to say, we very much like it.
Despite his Sardinian surname, the owner of Cirelli & Co, Alessandro Chessa, is Umbrian, from Spoleto.
Apart from a brief period in another sector, Alessandro has always worked in the restaurant business, both in Italy and in Australia, where he moved about ten years ago.
In Melbourne he worked as a pizza chef at Baby, one of Chris Lucas of Riverside Kitchen & Events’ restaurants, first as a pizza chef and then as a manager. In December 2019, he opened Cirelli & Co on Albion Street, and two years later, a second Cirelli on Lygon Street.
"When I arrived in Australia about ten years ago, I certainly didn’t expect to open a place of my own, but I immediately realised that in Australia you can do many things, with much less of a headache than in Italy", Alessandro said in his interview on Sapori - Viaggio nel gusto, aired every Tuesday on Rete Italia.
Despite his success with the aforementioned Cirelli & Co, Alessandro still considers himself a "newborn" on the restaurant scene in Melbourne: "We have made many sacrifices, but we found it extremely satisfying, and in any case we still have many projects".
With dishes such as spaghettini with pistachio pesto and tuna a crudo, and impossible-to-find classics such as frittura di pesce (fried prawns and squid) with vegetables and a light batter, you won’t find the menu of Cirelli & Co just anywhere.
“With difficulties finding staff in the period during and after Covid, we had thought to open this place as an antipasteria and pizzeria”, said Alessandro in the interview.
“Then I was lucky to find this guy, Domenico, who is now back in Italy where he is about to open a restaurant. He came to work with us and it’s he who deserves the credit for having worked out the whole menu, especially the pasta and fish, and together with him we decided to do something authentic, but innovative. We didn’t want to offer the same thing as other locals or do something too sophisticated – rather, something that the customer would not forget".
Food quality and service are two points on which Alessandro has not compromised and is not ready to compromise on.
“We started with a much smaller menu than the one we offer today, but we have always maintained our authentic quality and flavours. Pastas are all made in-house with simple sauces, which I think is fundamental, because you shouldn’t complicate things too much in the kitchen. Almost always, the best dishes are also the simplest.”
During the pandemic, Alessandro had to rethink his business and focus on takeaway- especially on bread, focaccia and desserts, like doughnuts, sfogliatelle and cannoli.
It was this success that led Alessandro to open a new Cirelli on Lygon Street, which is mainly a bakery and pastry shop.
Now that we can finally celebrate our newfound normality and go out to eat at a restaurant or pizzeria, Alessandro was thinking of opening a third Cirelli. But for now, not wanting to tempt fate, he is content where he is.
