“Rossi e mossi”: Sparkling reds
For some strange reason a number of experts and wine enthusiasts seem to regard bubbles as being of nobler standing if emitted by a white wine, yet somewhat inappropriate if found in a bottle of red.
Owing to climatic conditions, the production of fizzy wines is a natural oenological choice for the northern regions of Italy. The most famous of these, is the vivacious Lambrusco, or rather Lambruschi in the plural, seeing as this wine hails from a ‘family of grape varieties’ with a long-standing history.
The origins of this wine date back as far as 3000 B.C. and evidence exists of winemaking in both the Egyptian and Sumerian civilisations. In Italy, thanks to archaeological findings, the first traces of a wild vine called “labrusca” can be placed in the Bronze Age. Subsequent retrieval of fossil leaves and seeds demonstrates that the Latians (Latins), the Etruscans and the Galli Ligures also cultivated these wild grapes.
We have direct proof regarding the Latians via the great Latin poet, Virgil, native of Mantua, one of the leading areas of modern-day wine production. Two thousand years ago, Virgil wrote about the existence of “vitis labrusca” (wild vine).
This centuries-old tradition has also been mentioned by the Roman senator and historian, Cato; by Roman scholar, Varro; and by author, naturalist and philosopher, Pliny the Elder in his encyclopaedia “Naturalis Historia” (Natural History).
As mentioned before, the production of fizzy wines is concentrated mainly in northern Italy because of the climate. The ripening of the grapes occurs later, and this often meant interrupting the fermentation process, which would begin in the final months of the year to be resumed with the first signs of spring.
The still version of this wine was widely consumed, but at times, the second fermentation, in bottles or demijohns, produced a liquid saturated with gas.
With the introduction of pressure-resistant bottles, this wine could undergo a second fermentation (the same method used by the French producers of Champagne) making it fresh and sparkling.
The practice of bottle fermentation spread throughout Italy around the middle of the 19th century: in Piedmont for the production of Asti, in Veneto for that of Prosecco, and in Emilia for Lambrusco.
At the end of the 19th century, an alternative process called the Metodo Martinotti, using autoclaves (large hermetically sealed pressure tanks in which the second fermentation took place) was invented by Federico Martinotti, director of the “Istituto Sperimentale per l’enologia” (Experimental Wine Institute), in Asti. However, it ended up being patented in 1907 by French engineer Eugéne Charmat, who popularised it not only in France but in all the wineries around Europe, reaping the commercial benefits. The Metodo Martinotti is also known as the Charmat Method, the Tank Method and Cuve Close.
In recent years, both consumers and producers seem desirous of a return to more traditional philosophies and a less sophisticated, more gratifying drinking culture.
Effervescent wines should never be confused with spumanti, which are considered special wines. A wine that is sparkling by way of effervescence and mousse (foam), stands half way between a still wine (without bubbles) and a spumante. A slightly effervescent wine is referred to as “mosso” in Italian, or “pétillant” from the French.
The Lambruschi are produced in the geographical areas around Modena, Reggio Emilia and Mantua. In the Modena territory, historically renowned for its fizzy reds, we find DOC (origin-controlled) wines like Lambrusco di Sorbara, sometimes called “Lambrusco della viola” because of its perfume, redolent of violets (a darker, more full-bodied wine, deep ruby to purplish colour); and the widely-cultivated Lambrusco Salamino (its grape clusters resemble sausages) from Santa Croce Grasparossa di Castelvetro. In the province of Reggio Emilia, we find Reggiano Lambrusco DOC. The only one outside the region of Emilia-Romagna is the Lambrusco Mantovano DOC with the two subzones: Viadanese-Sabbionetano e Oltrepò Mantovano.
Whatever the provenance, Lambrusco wine is generally purplish-red, ruby or rose and slightly sparkling; it has a fruity to floral fragrance, average acidity and low alcohol content of 10.5 to 11%. The palate can vary from secco (dry) to abboccato (slightly sweet) to amabile (medium sweet) with a fresh and harmonious finish.
The Emilia-Romagna region doesn’t just produce Lambrusco. Other wines considered mossi (effervescent) using Pignoletto grapes are Barbera, Bonarda and Malvasia, from the Colli Bolognesi (hills around Bologna), Colli Piacentini (hills and valleys around Piacenza) and the adjacent Oltrepò Pavese, an area of the province of Pavia, in north-west Lombardy, which lies to the south of the river Po.
Bonarda Oltrepò Pavese is a deep ruby-coloured wine with a creamy mousse showing garnet hints. It has strong wild berry notes and a slightly astringent palate, but is overall well-balanced with high flavour intensity.
The Barbera Frizzante of the Colli Piacentini is characterised by a soft foam, notes of black cherry and spices, and persistence in the mouth.
Sparkling reds are extremely ‘food-friendly’ and pair very well with rich, fatty dishes because they effectively cut through the lingering greasiness. Traditional companions to cured meats, and cold cuts, they also complement cotechino (pork sausage) and zampone (stuffed pig's trotter) and the famous Milanese cassoeula (cabbage and pork stew); but also, spicy dishes like Pasta all'arrabbiata and the ubiquitous pizza.
Moscato
Light, aromatic, sweet and simpatico, ideal companion to pastries, but delightful on any occasion. This describes Moscato, the celebration wine par excellence, traditionally served with the classic panettone, pandoro or other Italian Christmas cakes. Very fashionable a few years ago in Italy, it has recently gained wide appeal all over the world, thanks to its substantial residual sugar and relatively low alcohol content.
Cultivated and produced throughout the entire Italian peninsula, there are now versions of Moscato made in Australia, some very palatable indeed, and all characterised by a wealth of aromas transferred to the wine.
There are countless Moscato wines on the market, but Asti's, made from Moscato bianco from Canelli (the only white muscat grape allowed in the production of Moscato d'Asti), is by far the most famous.
The history of this wine has its roots in the Middle Ages and the first documents which attest to its production in Piedmont, date back to 1300. Its name comes from the Latin “muscus” or "muscatus" which literally means “odour of moss”, an essence used in perfumery, indicative of a complex and aromatic bouquet.
Moscato, as we know it today, owes its reputation to Giovanni Battista Croce, jeweller of the royal Savoy family, and wine expert, who, in the early 1600s, suggested that it should not be "dried out" as was the practice then, but that the alcoholic fermentation be repeatedly stopped, so as to produce a sweet and effervescent wine.
At the end of the 1700s, the Agricultural Society of Turin incorporated the Moscato among the finest Piedmontese grape varieties, and at the turn of the century, Asti and Canelli established themselves as the symbolic areas of its production.
In the late 1800s, Asti Spumante began its existence by way of a secondary fermentation of the Moscato in the bottle, and the two types would differ in character, even though many still find it difficult to distinguish between them. Asti Spumante, produced by distinguished Piedmontese companies, is known throughout the world, while Moscato d'Asti is lesser known but more highly regarded, and displays by a lighter effervescence and a more delicate perfume, typical of that grape.
A few smaller producers of Asti use the Metodo classico or Champenoise Method - secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle as it does for Champagne and the best Italian spumanti - but generally, Moscato, both Asti and Spumante, are produced in autoclaves, using the Martinotti-Charmat Method.
The wine must is introduced into the autoclave together with the sugars and natural yeasts. The fermentation process is activated by increasing the temperature and allowing the natural yeasts to commence transforming the sugars into alcohol. When the level reaches 5.5% and a perfect balance between acidity, sugars and alcohol is obtained, the temperature of the tank is lowered and fermentation is interrupted. The carbon dioxide present in the tank at the end of this stage of fermentation is transferred into a bottle: this is what creates the effervescence in the Moscato d'Asti.
An Italian oenologist who recently took part in a wine event in Australia, recommended drinking Moscato d'Asti from mid-morning onwards, and for afternoon tea, with biscuits (instead of tea, given its low alcohol content). He told those present an anecdote about this wine: “These days,” he said, “it is produced by apprentice wine-makers because lowering the temperature of the autoclave can be done at any time of the day or night!”
Whoever produces it, the Moscato d'Asti must have certain features: a straw yellow colour with greenish reflections, an extremely fine perlage, a slow index of first and secondary fermentation, and a strong aroma of orange blossom, peach and thyme (mainly primary scents, already present in the grapes). The flavour is intense, elegant and persistent. The sweet sensations are well balanced by acidity and pleasant fruity aromas typical of Muscat grapes.
Meditation wines
What is a meditation wine? Well, hard to answer, when put on the spot.
They could be catalogued as dessert wines but this definition wouldn’t be comprehensive enough.
These wines are ‘older’ and different from those usually consumed during meals because they are difficult to pair with any particular dish. They are flavoursome and complete on their own, owing to the intensity of their aroma and taste. They can be sipped leisurely, relishing the moment, preferably in total relaxation.
The expression "meditation wines" was coined in the 1980s by Luigi Veronelli who dedicated his career as writer, journalist and publisher, to divulging knowledge of the Italian enogastronomic heritage. In fact, two attributes the whole world acknowledges are good food and good wine.
Italian wine culture used to be based solely on the idea that wines should be drunk during meals, but thanks to modern technology, these meditation wines have arrived on the scene. First and foremost they include sweet wines, which in the past were only sugary and oxidised, and needed to be consumed with pastries and cakes. The new wines are sweet but no longer oxidised.
There are a myriad of excellent Italian meditation wines. Here are just a few we recommend: Vin Santo, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, Passito di Pantelleria Murana, Rosso del Ciano, Picolit of the Colli Orientali del Friuli, and even Barolo Chinato. Barolo Chinato is an aromatic wine, produced by adding sugar, ethyl alcohol and slow-macerated spices to a Barolo. Invented by Giulio Cocchi, a creative, open-minded pastry chef from Florence who moved to Asti, where the Chinato was produced in 1891. The intense and persistent bitter-sweet taste makes it an elegant after dinner drink.
Australia, too, has quality meditation wines: the sweet, fortified wines of Rutherglen, in the north-eastern region of Victoria, and the award-winning Noble One.
Quoting Plato, we could define wine as “a drink that gives rise to profound philosophical dialogue”. And meditation wines do just that. A way to attain that perfect balance between ourselves and our wine is by savouring every drop and succumbing to the pleasure.
Simply “di-wine!”
