His parents both migrated from Sicily in the ‘50s and ‘60s and met in Australia.
When Vargetto was a child, his father had a vegetable garden where he grew tomatoes, eggplant, capsicum and chilli.
Meanwhile his mother, who was a seamstress and gifted cook, would venture far to buy fresh ricotta, which was not available in Sandringham.
Like many others, Vargetto’s family spent a great deal of time together in the garden or the garage, making passata, sun-dried tomatoes, sausages and salami.
“Our neighbours, Janet and Jim Ferguson, were originally from Edinburgh and they often asked us over the fence what we were doing,” Vargetto said.
“They thought that the oregano my father grew was marijuana.
“My mother went to the supermarket only to buy flour and laundry detergent, but never bread, which she made at home.
“I went to school with homemade bread and my classmates, with their sliced bread, made fun of me.”
Despite his fond memories of savouring traditional Italian dishes, such as the cavatelli his mother would make for special occasions, Vargetto did not initially consider a career in the kitchen.
In fact, he studied economics and commerce at university.
“I applied myself and passed my exams, but I was bored,” he said.
“I wanted something different – something more creative.”
In search of his true calling, a 19-year-old Vargetto ended up in the kitchen of the iconic Café Florentino, where he completed his apprenticeship before heading to Milan to work at Gualtiero Marchesi’s restaurant, which held three Michelin stars at the time.
Having worked for the “founding father” of modern Italian cuisine, Vargetto had no trouble finding a job when he returned to Melbourne; he was presented with opportunities to work with the likes of Jacques Reymond, Philippe Mouchel and Jeremy Strode.
After representing Australia at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition, Vargetto was head chef at The Venetian in South Yarra, before moving on to Number 8 at Crown and Oyster Little Bourke Street – the Melburnian version of Balthazar in New York.
After many years cooking in the kitchens of revered restaurants around the world, Vargetto decided it was time to return to his roots.
In 2011, he opened Mister Bianco, named after Misterbianco, a small town on the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna.
Since its opening, the charming restaurant has been a staple on the itineraries of foodies from far and wide.
The elegant restaurant features warm woody tones – bentwood chairs, dark timber floors, linen-clothed tables – and photos from the Golden Age of Italian cinema.
The service is always attentive but never intrusive.
An exciting blend of modern European and traditional Italian influences, the menu has hints of Vargetto’s Sicilian heritage.
Some dishes that I had the pleasure of tasting during my first visits to Mister Bianco have disappeared, some make a return every now and again, and others are now fixtures on the restaurant’s menu.
After two years at Mister Bianco, Vargetto decided to remove the slow-cooked beef cheeks from his summer menu as it is traditionally a winter dish; however, he was quick to bring it back following pressure from his loyal customers.
Another permanent dish is the lightly seared tuna, which is served on an avocado puree with pistachio flakes and spicy harissa.
Among the dishes that come and go are the Milanese-style cutlets, served with a butter and herb sauce.
Pasta dishes include: saffron cavatelli with sausage and capers; ricotta gnocchi with lamb shoulder ragù, green olives and oregano; pea and smoked mozzarella agnolotti with basil butter; and spaghetti with spiced carrot broth and whole grilled red prawns.
On my last visit to Mister Bianco, I chose a dish from the specials: the homemade squid ink rigatoni with seafood and fresh cherry tomatoes, which was a symphony of flavours and sensations.
On your first visit to Mister Bianco, I suggest you leave it up to the chef and opt for the sharing-style chef’s menu, which will get you a sumptuous spread of antipasti, pastas, mains, sides and dessert for $84 per person.
While the ingredients for the dishes are all locally sourced in Victoria, the wines come from Australia and Italy, with some from beyond the Alps.
Ready for a new adventure, Vargetto recently partnered with Maurice Terzini, the owner of acclaimed Bondi restaurants Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, and CicciaBella.
Though he has made a name for himself in Sydney, Terzini has deep roots in Melbourne.
His first restaurant was Caffè e Cucina in Melbourne, followed by Il Bacaro, Melbourne Wine Room, and Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons at Crown, which closed its doors eight years ago.
The duo’s new project, Cucina Povera, Vino Vero, will open before the end of January 2022.
The restaurant will open at 445 Little Collins Street, the site of Vargetto’s existing CBD venue Massi.
A simple menu will showcase a modern interpretation of Italian peasant food, while a short, sharp drinks offering will feature wines from eight local wineries and served by the carafe.
Terzini’s son, Sylvester, will lead the front-of-house team with the help of his grandfather, Arnaldo, while Vargetto and Terzini will take care of the kitchen.
