At first one might respond with a very definite “yes”, before adding through clenched teeth something like, “but what kind of question is that?”.
However, in reality the answer to this question isn’t as obvious as it may seem. Although it’s true that there are myriad differences between a pair of gloves and a plate of pasta, it’s also true that a pair of flared trousers and a quince share more than one similar trait. Both in the kitchen and in the design studio, certain trends tend to dominate. Whether it’s food or clothing displayed on supermarket shelves or in shop windows, it’s the “fruit” of fashion and a selection process dictated by taste which imposes itself upon society at a certain point in time.
That selection process is dominated by principles which aren’t always based on merit. For inexplicable reasons, certain stylish trends disappear much like certain products of the land become forgotten in time. In Italy this fate has befallen many types of fruit which are nostalgically named “forgotten fruit”.
In the ideal garden of “forgotten fruits”, you would find jujube, cornelian cherry, loquat, quince, arbutus or strawberry tree fruit, azerole, sorb-apple, volpino pear and gooseberry. Once flourishing in gardens and home orchards during the autumn months, these products featured permanently on Italian tables until the Late Middle Ages. Forgotten for centuries, these fruits have been recovered and saved from extinction by those nostalgic of the past and people who have fallen in love with their ancient tastes and aromas.
At the centre of this recovery process is the charming village of Casola Valsenio. Situated in the province of Ravenna, near the border of Tuscany, this commune has transformed into the “land of herbs and forgotten fruit”. It all began with the work of poet Tonino Guerra, who created the first garden of forgotten fruits in Pennabilli in 1989. Today, the community continues to preserve old local farming traditions and protect fruit varieties which have been more or less abandoned, using the knowledge that now only lives on in the memory of elders.
This virtuous process has spread from Romagna and Tuscany to the entire Belpaese, leading to the rediscovering of a wealth of colours and flavours which though almost forgotten in time, have returned to the memory of many. Let’s travel to the delicious and fragrant world of this family of fruits which dot the Italian terrain.
ALBICOCCO DEL PAPA or BIRICOCCOLO (PURPLE or BLACK APRICOT)
Before the arrival of genetic recombination, this natural hybrid of apricot and plum grew across Italy. Today, this endangered fruit can only be found in Bologna and the area of Faenza. The biricoccolo matures around July and has a velvety skin with dark red colouring. Encompassing the sweetness of apricots and the juicy texture of plums, this fruit is bursting with flavour.
AZZERUOLE (AZEROLE)
Originating in Asia Minor, the azerole is a versatile plant which can grow in all regions up to 1400 metres above sea level, although it’s more widespread in Liguria, Piedmont, Tuscany, Emilia Romagna and Sicily. This bushy plant of modest size produces fruit similar to cherries or miniature apples with a red, orange or pale yellow peel, depending on the variety. The fruit matures at the turn of August and September, and the pulp is tender and creamy yellow or light green with a pleasant balance between sweet and sour. Rich in vitamin A, azeroles have refreshing properties and can be consumed fresh, or used to make delectable jams and marmalades. Even the seeds can be removed and turned into syrup.
CACO (PERSIMMON)
Renowned throughout China for over 2000 years, the persimmon tree (Diospyros kaki) gradually spread to Korea, Japan and then to the Mediterranean basin. Rich in vitamin C, A and B and a containing a large number of minerals, calcium and fibre, persimmons only recently fell into disuse. Although they remain on fruit and vegetable stands, even here in Australia, they are a rarely consumed product.
CILIEGIA GIALLA or LIMONELLA (LIMONELLA or EUSTIS LIMEQUAT)
At first sight they may seem like unripe cherries. But don’t be fooled; despite their colour, limonellas are in fact ripe and sweet. Grown primarily across northern and central Italy, this fruit has almost disappeared, although it’s back in fashion in Umbria and Tuscany. Like its red friends, this yellow gem is perfect for the preparation of jams and syrup.
CORBEZZOLO (ARBUTUS or STRAWBERRY TREE)
The arbutus (Arbutus Unedo) is the fruit of an evergreen shrub which reaches the height of its beauty when in blossom, as it becomes adorned with a cascade of white bell-shaped flowers which bloom during autumn. The flowers then transform into vivid red berries with a fresh and sweet pulp which can be used to make delicious jams and aromatic vinegar. The berries can also be used in decoctions and infusions which can detoxify the kidney, liver and urinary tract, fight fever and help with diarrhoea due to their antiseptic and astringent properties.
CORNIOLO (CORNELIAN CHERRY)
This is a rather rare species of the dogwood family, typical of southern Italy, which replicates the shape of olives. The cherries change colour as they mature, passing from green to a vibrant red. The fruit can be used in many recipes or to flavour certain types of spirits such as grappa. Cornelian cherries are used primarily in Emilia Romagna to make vinegar, spirits, jam and sweets. Dogwood was also used to create the Trojan Horse along with the javelin with which Romulus drew the boundaries of Rome.
GABBALADRO (GREENGAGE)
Widespread in Gargano at the time, this fruit is a classic plum variety with a very intense flavour. The name derives from the green colour of the fruit which it maintains even when mature. The greengage was able to trick fruit thieves with its deceptive colouring, as they believed it wasn’t yet ripe for the picking.
GIUGGIOLE (JUJUBE)
Also known as “Chinese dates”, jujubes grow on a plant with an almost unpronounceable name (Ziziphus zizyphus), and are picked during late summer when their skin becomes a deep red. It’s then that the pulp reaches its full maturity, acquiring its trademark sweet and sugary taste. Other than in “brodo di giuggiole” (jujube-flavoured wine) which spawned the famous expression “andare in brodo di giuggiole” (to be over the moon), this fruit can be used to make syrups, marmalade and spirits.
MELA/PERA COTOGNA (QUINCE)
Known as the “golden apples” which were offered to the Gods at Crete, quinces (Cydonia oblonga) are perhaps one of the most ancient fruits. Already cultivated by the Babylonians, the quince was considered a sacred fruit by the Greeks and the Romans. Quinces are used to make jam, jelly, mostarda (fruit chutney), spirits and liqueurs, and the famous “cotognata”, a semi-solid jam or jelly typical of Ragusa. Given their aroma, quinces were often used as fragrances, especially for linen, another reason why this fruit was produced in abundance in Italy up until the 1960s. However, the lowered market demand for this fruit has led to a decrease in its manufacturing on an industrial scale, and consequently, its seeds have become an object of protection for the SeedSavers.
MELA ROGGIA (RUSTY COAT)
This fruit is average in size with a greenish brown peel, almost as if it were covered with rust. Grown originally in Arezzo and Umbria, it’s mainly cultivated across Tuscany today. The fruit is picked around October.
PERA COCOMERINA (COCOMERINA PEAR)
Most widespread among the Tuscan-Romagnolo Appenines, in the valley of the Tiber, this is a small pear with a fragrant smell. This fruit is quite unique in that its flesh is a surprisingly red colour, not unlike that of a cocomero (watermelon). Once the fruit is mature and has a muscatel flavour, it doesn’t keep fresh for long and is therefore more suitable for preserves and jams.
PESCA SANGUINELLA (BLOOD PEACH)
This small, round peach is native to central Italy and is characterised by its juicy red flesh. Harvested around the beginning of autumn, this fruit has a slightly bitter taste.
SORBO (SORB-APPLE)
This is one of the “forgotten fruits” with the most beneficial properties. The sorb-apple is perfect for making jams or a cider which is popular in some regions of France and Germany. According to the legend, the sorb-apple tree (Sorbus domestica) can keep evil spirits away from the home, and due to its beauty it was often used as an ornament, while the value of its fruit was overlooked. The fruit was popular among the Ancient Romans due to its beneficial properties for the intestine, which are derived from high concentration levels of tannins, flavonoids and vitamin C. Today, sorb-apples are primarily used in herbal medicine, while they rarely appear in kitchens. In Bolognese dialect, the term “sorbole!” is used to express awe and wonder.
UVA SPINA (GOOSEBERRY)
The gooseberry bush is a perennial shrub belonging to the Saxifragales family whose fruit resembles round berries. The berries vary in colour depending on the variety. Although forgotten in time, the gooseberry is a fruit teeming with flavour and nutritional benefits. This fruit is great for vision impairment due to the presence of anthocyanin pigments, and it can also help with gout, chronic rheumatism and arthritis. The berries can be enjoyed in a variety of ways either fresh or dried, and whether it be in cakes, puddings, sorbets, or as a garnish on fish or meat, gooseberries are able to add a proverbial sweet note to any dish.
