In the scene, a table full of yuppies describe their orders to a waiter in great detail: “I’ll have a decaf coffee.” “I’ll have a decaf espresso.” “I’ll have a double decaf cappuccino.” “I’ll have a half double decaffeinated half-caf with a twist of lemon.” 

Fast forward to 2021, and those of us who went to see that film at the cinema, laughing hysterically at the joke, don’t even flinch when we hear the various requests in today’s cafes, such as a chai cappuccino or an almond latte.

By now, we are all aware of the exponential rise in food allergies; we all know at least one person who is intolerant to a certain food and has to pay particular attention to what they eat.

According to official statistics, one in eight Australians is affected by celiac disease, and many people are undiagnosed.

Celiac disease is a serious autoimmune disorder that occurs in genetically predisposed people where the ingestion of gluten leads to damage in the small intestine. 

When people with celiac disease eat gluten (a protein found in wheat, rye, barley and other grains), their body mounts an immune response that attacks the small intestine.

Left untreated, celiac disease can lead to additional serious health problems.

In short, it is certainly not something to joke about.

The problem for Italians is that a large part of their traditional cuisine is based on pasta and bread, as well as vegetables, fish and some meat.

For Italian restaurateurs, both in the Belpease and in Australia, it was a great challenge to cater to the rise in food allergies and intolerances.

Trieste-born Lorenzo Tron and Reggio Emilia native Roberto Davoli took on the challenge and turned it into an opportunity.

They are the owners of Shop 225, in Pascoe Vale South, and Il  Caminetto, in Moonee Ponds.

The former has the title of the first gluten-free pizzeria in the country certified by Coealiac Australia.

Meanwhile, Il Caminetto boasts the status of being one of the first wood-fire pizza shops in Melbourne, long before the duo renovated it and reopened its doors.

Both restaurants offer traditional Italian specialties, such as spaghetti alla pescatora or fettuccine alla Norcina, as well as dishes with a touch of genius, such as homemade black ravioli (charcoal) filled with pumpkin, potatoes and leek and served in a green pea and pancetta sauce.

Even the pizzas range from the classic margherita or capricciosa, to the more intriguing “Bianca Gamberi” with stracciatella cheese, prawns, parsley and pancetta, or the “Zio Pino”, with stracciatella cheese, mushroom, parsley, Grana Padano and truffle oil.

On both of the restaurants’ menus, the range of gluten-free options is astounding.

For Tron, it was a natural progression to create a menu that had gluten-free options, given that his partner has celiac disease.

“While we have developed a menu that caters to dietary needs, we haven’t compromised on the flavour or visual appeal of our dishes,” he said in an interview with Rete Italia.

The Coeliac Australia certification, obtained by adopting strict safety measures in the kitchen and undergoing rigorous inspections and staff training, sets Shop 225 aside from the rest; while many restaurants offer gluten-free options, Shop 225 can guarantee that not one crumb has been contaminated.

“We have two kitchens: one for preparing traditional dishes and one for preparing gluten-free dishes,” Tron explained.

“The kitchens are separate so as to avoid any kind of contamination.

“Gluten-free dishes never come into contact with raw materials and utensils that could affect their purity.”

Davoli added that the flours for the pasta and pizza are also stored separately, while the pizzas are cooked separately in the wood-fire oven – the gluten-free ones on baking paper to avoid direct contact with the oven’s surface.

“For us, Italian food is characterised by the simplicity, quality and freshness of ingredients,” Tron concluded.

“Serving customers is like having family at the table... we’re glad that the gluten-free community can finally enjoy pizza again.”