Gnocchi à la Parisienne
A recipe from my great-uncle, who is a chef in Trieste. Gnocchi à la Parisienne are made with choux pastry and poached in boiling water. They are not to be confused with other types of gnocchi, such as gnocchi alla romana, made with semolina and baked or pan-fried in slices, like polenta.
• 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) milk
• 1/2 cup (125 ml) butter, diced
• 3 onions, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 1/2 teaspoons (7.5 ml) chopped fresh thyme
• Pinch of nutmeg
• 1 1/2 tsp (7.5 ml) salt
• 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 4 eggs
For the sauce:
• 1/2 lb (225g) sliced pancetta, finely chopped
• 3 tbsp (45 ml) butter
• 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) homemade tomato sauce, hot
• Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, to taste
• Pepper
1. In a saucepan, bring the milk to the boil with the butter, onion, garlic, thyme and salt. Remove from the heat. Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough forms a smooth ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan. Return the saucepan to the stove over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes.
2. Remove from the heat and let stand for a few minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon after each addition, until the dough is smooth. (You can also use an electric mixer for this step.)
3. With a pastry bag fitted with a 1.5-cm (3/4-inch) plain tip, pipe 1.5-cm (3/4-inch) pieces of dough into a pot of barely simmering salted water. Poach 1/4 of the dough at a time, 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Remove from the water and set aside in a large oiled dish. Repeat with the remaining dough.
4. In a skillet over medium heat, brown the pancetta in 15 ml (1 tablespoon) but-ter. Add the remaining butter and continue cooking until the butter foams. Pour the mixture over the gnocchi. Toss gently.
5. Divide the tomato sauce among four pasta bowls and pile the gnocchi in the middle. Sprinkle the cheese. Adjust the seasoning.